So far we had tried the TGV, taxis, mini buses, camels, mules and it was time to do the public buses. Achraf had organised tickets and we walked from our hotel in the Medina with porters trundling our luggage in box carts, to the main bus stop where we took our allocated seats on the comfortable, air-conditioned bus.

The three and a half hour journey was broken up with an absolutely incredible manic twenty minute stop. It was a huge ‘restaurant’ with hundreds of travellers. I was beginning to think orders may have been placed telepathically as John seemed to receive his coffee within seconds.

Marrakech seemed cleaner, very busy and felt more modern than the other cities we had visited.

Our hotel was a very old riad with five floors and a covered rooftop terrace where we had breakfast. I suspect it was old because of the tiled columns, floor and benches. They were Zillige which are small tiles individually placed on the surface in particular patterns. It was very beautiful. Wooden painted ceilings and Gebs plaster design features also contributed to the overall opulence of the tired old building.

A visit to the Medina was jaw dropping. We were warned not to take pictures of the cobras and the snake charmers as they charged exorbitant prices and also avoid the henna decorators. Nadia, our guide explained that basically all lanes lead back to the main square Diemaa el Fna which is the largest public square in the world. It was under construction. Morocco is getting reading for the 2030 World Cup.

She gave us a bit of a run down on the Islamic Mosque then led us to the olive market. The Medina is like a gigantic department store with specific markets in different areas. Shoes, leather, clothing, rugs, foodstuff all organised a drink or in this amazing chaos. We got to taste the fruit of prickly pear which made our lips and tongue red and visit an Argon oil cooperative and buy there. Anyone who has been on a tour knows the drum.

We were also warned that scooters have no rules. They travel at whatever speed they choose, run red lights, ignore pedestrian crossings and (this has to be experienced to be believed), drive through the crowded Medina. Sometimes one needs nerves of steel just to navigate the crowds interspersed with scooters and the occasional bicycle, mule and cart, box cart and driver… all shouting, ‘Andak! Andak!’ (Look out!). It’s a case of ‘walker beware’. 

The bug that brought us all down impacted on Lynn and stopped her from participating in the activities, and her and Charlie decided to head back to the UK a couple of days early. It was a shame but health takes precedence over everything when you get a bit older.

Our final evening we celebrated with a group meal. Ashie had been a good tour leader and a couple of times on the bus armed with the microphone, he entertained us with his rendition of ‘The Gambler’. I decided to innovate on the song and some of the others made a contribution too. We sang it to him at the restaurant. He was thrilled.

The Leader
It was the Best of Morocco Tour
He was our leader 
He took us everywhere 
Ashie was his name
A bout of diarrhoea 
Never even phased him
Oh we will miss you Ashie
When the tour is done

Cause he knows when to hold them
Knows when to scold them
Knows when to ‘chick’ us in
Or have a TTC
He is a proud and cool Amazig man
And we’re all pleased to know him
Oh we’ll miss you Ashie
When the tour is done 

John and I had a couple more days in the city and moved to a different Riad, inside the Medina. The suite was huge and we even had our own roof terrace.

From here we explored the Medina and visited Jardin Marjorelle which was exceptional. As we were only metres away from Bacha Coffee Café and Museum, John decided to have a look. Somehow he managed to get in despite the two hour queue.

He checked out the beautiful building which had formerly been a palace and decided not to do coffee. It was a bit overpriced and pretentious he decided.

It had been quite an adventure- seventeen nights. It is a big country, with a lot to see and do, amazing history and fantastic landscapes. We agreed that we were very pleased we had come despite the stomach bug.