At one stage we were aiming at getting to Essaouira for the sunset over the Atlantic but the stop at the Argon Oil Cooperative was a serious distraction and we dillydallied. When we eventually arrived, Achraf (Ashie) had booked a restaurant and we left our luggage in the capable hands of the hotel staff and followed our intrepid leader.
Our hotel was in the Medina and the following morning our guide, Said, met us and explained how Essaouira, the windy city on the Atlantic Coast, formerly known as Mogador, had began as a Phoenician trading port in the 5th century BCE and underwent a number of changes before reverting back to the fishing port that it is today. The port is protected by the island of Mogodor and shelters a welcome safe harbour which was easily fortified.
He introduced us to a retired fisherman, who explained the different types of tackle, boats and even timing the fishermen chose to fish for particular fish.
We got to go to the fish market, pick out our seafood, followed the chef back to his very rustic restaurant and watched the crew cook up a storm. Another tourist brought in an enormous crayfish to be prepared for their table of six. We feasted on our fare.
Our tour leader, Achfan, is an indigenous man and explained that while the term Berber was often used to describe North African tribes, the native people prefer to be known by the term, Amazigh. They have their own flag too.
Amazigh jewellery is filled with symbolism and highly prized by the people of North Africa. The lands of the nomadic Amazigh once stretched across Northern Africa and went as far south as Mali. There are twenty-eight tribes in all and at least one the Touareg, is matrilineal which means the family line follows the woman and wealth, in terms of jewellery is past from mother to daughter. It is usually made of silver and there are a number of different techniques.
Said, took us to a silver workshop and the various techniques the artisans used, was explained. ‘The acid test’ to determine the genuine silver (which can be used on gold too) was demonstrated. It was all fascinating. I succumbed and purchased a bangle.
Later we enjoyed a hammam which was on the second floor above a pharmacy. I was intrigued. Not what I was expecting. We were given a locker with a key and a bath robe and four of us were led into a room with four heated stone slabs. Our keys and robes were taken from us and we were invited to lay on the hot stones and relax. Then the fun began. Sloshed and soaked, rubbed and scrubbed, scraped and scoured we all immersed shinny and clean. Some even lined up for a massage afternoon .
Oh and we also had our laundry done. I think it was the equivalent of $5 a kilogram or part thereof and I think my bill was $10. Bargain! I did lose a sock. Small price to pay.
The Medina in Essaouira was designed on a grid pattern by a French architect and it is incredibly easy to navigate. It was a treat to explore.
Ashie had organised another restaurant, this time with a view of the sunset over the Atlantic. It was actually built into the fortress walls with a terrace overlooking the ocean. It was truly magic. I think everyone was impressed. This was another example of how local knowledge and a tour trumps independent travel. We have had so many unique and wonderful experiences.
After dinner we were entertained by Gnawa musicians- one on the krakeb, tin castanets and the other on a three stringed lute called a Sintir. The krakeb emulated the sound of the shackles worn by the slaves as they traversed the desert on their way to Marrakech to be sold and then on to Essaouira to an unknown destination. The music was haunting but surprisingly optimistic.
We certainly could fit a lot into twenty-four hours.