Zanna, our guide, had a very different take on Gori. Instead of the much visited museum commemorating the birth place of a gangster, bank robber, genocidal maniac and merciless Soviet dictator, her emphasis was more on the history of the city, first established during the Bronze Age and the Soviet occupation which took place during August 2008 at the time of the Russian-Georgian war. Georgia lost- in fact 20% of its territory was subsumed to Russian control including the closest provence to Gori, South Ossetia.
We did visit the museum and predictably no mention was made of anything but heroic acts of Stalin. A perfect example of propaganda. Josie and I hung out together avoiding the talk and trying hard to not get upset about the parallels between the current leader of the free world and actions taken by Starlin and his Nazi counterpart. It was confronting!
The contrast between the heroes depicted by the Soviets and those depicted by Georgian artist, Giorgi Ochiauri, is stark, while one romanticises the horror, the other, while acknowledging the stoic bravery, gives testament to the loss each individual experiences in conflict.
Lunch was in a garage at the back of an urban property. KE & RA Restaurant was established by the family during Covid and Intrepid supports the enterprise by treating us to a unique Georgian experience.
We drove along the Georgian Military Highway towards the Russian boarder and were amazed by the line of trucks waiting to cross the boarder and negate any sanctions the West is imposing. Pavel said it is not uncommon to have a line of 70km of trucks waiting anything from a few hours to a few days to cross the boarder. This was a very hairy ride and our driver, Giordi, earned his hero status and a our eternal gratitude.
Again, up early, breakfasted and on the bus by nine, short stop at the Friendship Arch, commemorating the ‘friendship’ between Russia and Georgia a quick stop at Sno to admire some ‘headstones’ and we head to Stepantsminda where we took a4WD to the spectacular location of the impressive Gergeti Trinity Church. Some hiked down into the valley where we met up and then took a fabulous cable car ride through the mountains. Our day was complete when we enjoyed a wonderful meal at our lovely hotel.
Our final day in Georgia and a visit to the thirteenth century Ananuri Fortified Castle which was never defeated because of a secret tunnel enabling the besieged to access food and water. When, according to Google, a woman named Ana from Nuri was captured she chose to die rather than give the secret away and hence the castle was called Ananuri.
After a lunch in Tbilisi we head to the border with Armenia. This crossing was a lot less tiresome. Our first stop in Armenia was the medieval Haghpat Monestry a centre of learning during the Middle Ages a UNESCO site due also to its unique Armenian architecture. Here we saw a host of Khachkars, individually carved stone crosses, a fundamental symbol of Armenian culture and Christianity.
Giorgi delivered us safely to our fabulous hotel where we gave him an appropriate send off before indulging in yet another wonderful group meal.
