Vardzia appears on the mountain wall opposite. We tumble out of the van for a photo opportunity. 500m along and having 19 tiers it is an impressive cave monastery built around the twelfth century.

We are going to climb up there and have a little look. My atheism is sneaking up on me nagging at my subconscious, that and the fact that I am tired, I am looking for excuses but the sensible me keeps on keeping on. ‘You can do this. It’s why you’re here. You won’t be back!’ I acquiesce.

Fortunately a bus takes us some of the way and our guide is enthusiastic and informative so I forget most of my pain and anxiety.

The guide is good. She is an archeologist. She explains that the site has evidence of human hibitation from the fifth century BC but the majority of the human made caves date back to the twelfth century and was used as a monestr;y. She pointed out the use of the various rooms, how an earthquake sliced off quite a bit of the structure and that there were actually fifteen churches in the structure. We clambered up and down, in and out, at our peril. It was quite an adventure.

Next is the oldest fortress in Georgia, Khertvisi, and Carol and I cave in and decided that the shade of a tree is more inviting. We sit and chat and wait while the others demonstrate their youth and vigor clambering over rocks and reaching the top. Too tired! Too hot! Don’t care!

Ahh the top of the mountain and the air is cool and we are welcomed by a tiny group of nuns who have chosen to make this solitude their lives. They fed us and welcomed us into their lives for just a short while but it was one of the most memorable experiences thus far.

In contrast to the simple honesty of the convent we visited the ninth century Rabati Castle- a grand fortress sacked by the Ottomans in 1578 and reconstructed in 1911 attempting to cover its entire history and includes a fortress, a castle, a mosque, a church, baths and a citadel. Our guide attempted to tie the pieces together but it was a challenge. Pavel did recognise how tired we were and had the bus take us to the exit to meet our guide and reduce the number of steps we would need to take. Some still ventured up the tower and waved to those of us below much to our chagrin!