Just emerged from my first onsen…ladies only and am feeling exeptionally chilled so of course broke open a little bottle of sake. Ummm…nice!!! Nikko Tan Janmaishu – pure rice sake called Sunlight! Made right here in Kinugawa. (Label warning: Alcohol is for those 20 years and over. Phew…just make it!!!)

It has been a good day- well for me more than John. We took the local train to Nikko about an hour away to see the famous Shinkyo Bridge and the shrines. Trapsed up to UNESCO Heritage Listed Nikko Toshogu Shrine, enveloped by the swam of tourists and a multitude of children on school excursions. I took an audio guide and melted into the mayhem.

John…well his knee has been giving him grief for some time no, on and off. It’s the random nature of the disability which convinces him that it will just right itself and he will be twenty-five again in no time. Well as if to give him a gentle reminder that that time was in the deep past, his body surrupticiously smacked him behind the knees. Literally! He has sufferred some sort of injury to his calf muscle. It literally stops him in his tracks. It could be funny but it’s the other leg. Not funny!!!

So far everything has been pretty easy. We did almost get lost at the change over in Tokyo Skytree station, from the airport to Kinukowaonsen but we had been warned to take advice with a grain of salt so when the delightful young women who were helping us out indicated one direction and we both felt discombobulate, we shuffled around taking up time until they were on their way and reconsulted Google who eventually put us on the right track to Hotel Sunshine at Kinugowa.

The hot springs at Kinugowaonsen were discovered about three hundred years ago and were initially reserved for royalty and monks who had visited the shrines at Nikko. Later it was made available to the public with lots of hotels opening up, then the 1990s recession hit and suddenly there were derelict buildings clinging to the sides of the gorge. Since the early 2000s its fete has reversed and tourists have returned, especially to access Nikko and particularly in the Autumn.

Immediately beside the hotel is a suspension bridge and walking paths to viewing points. It stopped raining and I headed out. Along the path I met a man- well there were two actually but only one prepared to chance a conversation with me. He stopped me and asked where I was from. I mean really! We started chatting and he told me he had been to Sydney, Cairns and Rockhampton. Umm yes, Rockhampton. He was curious to know if I was on my own. I told him John had injured his leg and I was determined to see the sights. He then mentioned a waterfall, in the other direction and only five minutes walk. I decided to do that.

Later, while John was standing on the street waiting patiently for me, a radom Japanese man walked up to him and struck up a conversation beginning with the surprising starter- ‘Hello, are you Australian?’ Of course he had joined the dots and John’s hobbling probably gave it away.

The hotel provides our outfits. We’ve gone all Japanese, donning our Yukata (summer kimono), belting it with an obi (sash), and putting on our tabi (socks) and Setta (cushioned sandals). I always wear my haori (short coat) to dinner or around the hotel.

I even booked four lots of Kaiseki -traditional Japanese multi-course haute cuisine. Unfortunately, John was not as impressed as me so we did a buffet last night instead. I had a think about it and have decided to do Kaiseki on my own tonight and while that is definitely not Reigi (de rigueur), the hotel has aquiesced and I’m going solo tonight!! Should be interesting. One really good thing…I will have the same nakai-san (attendant). She very excitedly sidled up to me at breakfast to let me know.

The hotel is really quirky. The phone still works and they will come and remove insects if need be as the hotel is located on the ‘Kinugowa River in the countryside of nature and lots of insects come into the room.’ I gave up explaining I wanted our room serviced daily but they did leave clean towels every day and a myriad of paraphernalia!