Tantalizing Tuscana

Decision made. We would head to Certaldo, just fifteen minutes from our new accommodation. We would find a trattoria and have lunch.

That is of course after we work out where to park and how to pay. It was Saturday. The young couple from Firenze explained that the crossed hammers meant ‘working days’ and Saturday is a working day so one has to pay. The cross, of course, represents Sunday. There was a coin stuck in the machine. We persisted and seeing we had no idea where we were or where we were going, decided to stalk the Florentinos. They headed for the Funicolare. We were going to the top.

Jacopo (Casagrande) and Valentina were very accommodating, and we followed their lead, purchasing our biglietti and riding the funicular. It turns out Jacobo is a historian about to launch his blog on theitaliantales.info focusing on Medieval times and places. He was so enthusiastic particularly as we were about to venture into the birthplace of one of his favourite comedians from the fourteenth century, Giovanni Boccaccio the author of The Decameron. 

Hunger diverted us and the terrace at Il Castello Ristorante had us bugged eyed with wonder. The menu reflected regional flavours, our cameriere was well informed and attentive and the food delicious. I had the duck and John the lasagne. Just to add another dimension we got to see and discover the story of the tortoise family that had taken up residence.  

Our accommodation was on an estate in the countryside- agriturismo, perfect for exploring the Chianti region of Tuscany. San Gimigiano is renowned so naturally a tourist mecca. We made the decision to arrive around eight. Absolutely the best decision! For just a little while we shared this beautiful village with very few.

By 9:30 the buses began to arrive. The streets began to throng with stick carrying mini-flag-wavers, chatting to themselves trailed by lanyard bedecked travellers, focused on the tiny voice disgorging packaged information though their earpiece. We appreciated having a car. It was time to go.

There are just so many beautiful hilltop villages and of course it is not possible to see them all. Volterra was close by so we lunched on the terrace overlooking the lovely Tuscan hills and then decided to taste the wine at Factoria La Torre (The Tower Farm). Our host Elena, was excellent and so we had to buy a bottle of their wine.

Doreen and her brother Antonio manage the agritourism and the wine and olive growing business. My attempt to organise a wine tasting at the property was a bit lost in translation. Doreen was confused and explained that she usually shows guests the cantina and provides a charcuterie board or tagliere. We agreed on a time and met her at the pool area. When she asked if we would like to see the cantina I was confused. I thought a cantina was a bar however in Italian it is the cellar. The penny dropped.

She was such a wealth of information taking us through the wine making process and showing us the various apparatus used at each stage. All the while she explained the history of the vineyard and the story of her family and its part in the development of the company. A fascinating woman with a fabulous story from her time in Papua New Guinea to boarding school in Firenze to establishing a family run enterprise. And then we got to partake in food and wine!!

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