Pertisau am Archensee

Pertisau is a stunning alpine village set beside the largest lake in the Tyrol- Achensee. It is not on the major international tourist route. We have had to explain to the mystified Austrians that the reason we ended up here was because it was the halfway point between Munich and Lagenfeld, our real purpose of being in the area. This serendipity was not always appreciated. Pertisau for the purist is paradise. Despite the distain we endured.

Our hosts, Marianne and Thordes were wonderful and on our arrival – quite a few hours early- Thordes announced that our room was ready. We had done plane, trains and autobus and had not been in a bed for forty hours. I wanted to reach across and give him a hug. I restrained myself- so Austrian!!!

Despite our exhaustion we knew we had to make an effort and stay awake at least until sunset and begin to restore our circadian rhythms. It was hot. We resorted to a cruise. Brilliant! Beautiful!

This is a serious place for an ‘active’ holiday – sailing, swimming, wind surfing, golf, horse riding, para gliding, cycling, mountain biking but most important of all – hiking. Once you have completed one of the many trails you can claim a gold pin- they are now available digitally!

John and I were not part of this scene. In fact, we were ridiculous. Each of us is currently carrying an injury. We can be seen in the Austrian capital of energy and wellness hobbling around the streets, John with his Achilles heel injury and me with my self-diagnosed arthritic knee.

Undeterred we hired e-bikes and cycled the eastern shore to Scholastica for coffee and cake – after all we are in Austria. On our return we found a spot and ventured into the cold water. It was twelve o’clock. I know this because we heard the bells peel followed by an exceptional rendition of Ave Maria come floating across the lake.

Next, Atoll, a new water and wellness resort. Here we would recuperate after our ride and mistakenly indulge in a shared pizza and salad. Half-board at Hotel Central was more than generous and we struggled to eat morsels of our evening meals prepared by our Grüne Haube chef. Lesson learned!

We woke to an absolutely stunning day and decided to take the Karwendel Bergbahn to Zwölferkopf!! (Translation- we got a cable car up the mountain). There, a convocation of paragliders was gathered ready to take to the sky. We watched, transfixed. It was awe inspiring to see them ascend into the magnificent surrounds- perfect weather, perfect location.

Everyone else was there to hike. We did walk but not much and then we had coffee There is always a coffee house come bar wherever there are walking tracks in the mountains- very civilized! On our descent John spotted the golf driving range and decided to hit a few practice balls. This was not a straightforward exercise, but John is very determined, and this was going to happen. Eventually he negotiated the foreign setup, got the thirty balls and the free five iron from the bemused professional. Midway through the exercise, an epiphany! He walked over and said, ‘Check out the view. (Like I wasn’t there!!!) This is the most spectacular driving range I have ever been on!”

Cool start to Sunday and we heard the bells peel and stumbled upon a very special mass. It was the Pertisau celebration of Corpus Christi where sections of the congregation were dressed in traditional garb and after the first part of the mass, a procession to another church a few hundred metres down the road for the sacrament. The choir performed, the accompanying guard blasted a salute and the procession continued to the waterfront where the service was completed. What a cultural treat!

Pertisau has been an amazing stopping off point. We were refreshed and enthused about the rest of our journey. So next stop Lägenfeld.


  1. What amazing scenery….we’re jealous of course…where’s the kayaks?


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