Driving with crazies

We have come from Kotor in Montenegro where there are amazing five star hotels and wonderful apartments and great vistas etc etc but the roads and the drivers!!!!OMG you have to experience a drive in Montenegro to believe it. They have been described as the worst drivers in Europe, surpassing the Portugese, and that is really saying something. It is scary. The roads are awful and combine that with the number of drivers who either have a death wish or simply consider rules things that other people need to follow. There are speed limit signs every couple of hundred metres. The maximum EVER is 80kph. It is often 30 or 40 because there are so many corners and the roads are narrow and two way. Well….The best way to drive and stay alive is to stay on the speed limit because it is often slow enough to edge off the road to avoid a head on, if anyone is behind you pull over as soon as possible to let them pass and if there are three or more cars in on-coming traffic be prepared to take defensive action as some idiot is going to get impatient and pass at any moment. It is also important to be aware that the lines drawn on the road are mysteries to the Montenegrins. Centre lines, double lines, faded fat pedestrian lines, dotted or solid lines, are all part of some puzzle that these drivers have not yet worked out.

We survived and got back to Croatia where the drivers are not great but definitely better than those in Montenegro.
Caught the ferry from Drevenik on the Makaska coast to Hvar and drove the length of the island, about 80k to get here. It did take about two hours because the road is ummm interesting. It seems most of the way to be sort of suspended about two to three metres above the ground with sheer drops either side. Add to that, extremely narrow, very winding and mostly etched into cliff faces. Just to make it even more interesting the scenery is spectacular so the driver really misses out. Another travel moment.

Speaking of which…at the beach bar when John asked for a small beer and the waitress returned with four beers decided they were so cheap, it was so hot, she was so lovely so we just had to deal with it. Local beer Niksicko went down a treat.

Last night we went exploring trying to find a restaurant John had come across on the internet. Lambik, it’s called. He had some vague directions and really Milna is such a tiny place so he was confident he would find it. We didn’t but ended up having a wonderful meal anyhow. Later on we were strolling along the waterfront checking out the cafes and bars that were nestled among the rocks above the waves or suspended over the water, we came across a couple of kids playing so I joined in. Well I scared them half to death and they found it hilarious and John entertained them with his ridiculous magic trick which he finds particularly amusing.To cut to the chase, John asked the kids if they knew where Lambik was. ‘Yes’, said one of the kids, ‘My dad works there. I’ll show you,’ she said and jumped on her bike and took us through the dark into what looked like someone’s backyard and there it was, wooden tables set out under pergolas of grape vines, lighting suspended in the olive trees and a stone house with a kitchen. Wow. Marla brought us in introduced us to her parents and made the suggestion that we have grilled fish when we come back to dine. We were treated to olive grappa before we left. Delightful!

Oh yeah! John has had a haircut. He was pleased to escape with the little hair that he had left. I have never seen it that short but I am reassuring him because now it doesn’t look any where near as white!


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