Another five hour drive and we arrive at Todra Gorge where we discover we’re in an amazing hotel access to which is via a suspension bridge and a host of stairs but it did have a pool.

The porters were Sherpa clones. We were lucky. Our room was on the first floor. I think it was Marnie and Tammy who were on the fifth! They did have a balcony.

I decided to join the group on a guided hike through the valley with Azize, a local who was both incredibly informative and totally hilarious. I particularly enjoyed the quite rest in a shaded tunnel where we chewed the fat, discussing philosophy and what we consider the similarities and differences of the Moroccan and Western cultures. There was general consensus that the essential difference was that while Moroccans lived in the moment Westerns were obsessed with ‘what’s up next’.

Just four hours today and a stop at the Atlas Movie Studios where the likes of ‘The Mummy’, ‘Black Hawke Down’, ‘Gladiator 2’ and a host of others were filmed. At this stage quite a number of people on the tour had succumbed to a stomach bug. It was John’s turn.

Our destination was Ait Ben Haddou a major staging point for caravns from Timbuktu enroute to Marrakesh. Here we had an amazing room overlooking the river and the astounding UNESO site. John rested. I ventured out to climb to the top but changed my mind when Kathleen and Christine decided to make their own way through the interesting laneways. I ventured off on my own, distracted by the amazing photo opportunities and got lost. While Achfan sent me a link I struggled to follow it. I walked along the riverbed, took the wrong access path, ended up in someone’s dining room and eventually found a young man offering to show me the way back to the hotel. I was a bit thrown when he asked for money but remembered -this is the culture.

We enjoyed a spectacular sunset and moonrise at Ait Benhaddau followed by traditional Moroccan food on the roof terrace of the guesthouse. We also enjoyed some beer and wine not always easily accessible or acceptable in this Muslim country.

Another five hour drive, this time through the Toubkal National Park in the High Atlas Mountains to the village of Imlil. Here we would leave our main luggage and make our way to the tiny hillside village of Aroumd, taking just a backpack for the overnight homestay. The choice was to hike, ride a mule or take a car. John and Lyn were both a bit iffy and decided the car was the best option for them. Charlie (81!!), Jess, young John, Juanita and Tammy did the hike led by Achfan while Kathleen, Christine, Marnie and I rode mules over the same treacherous rocky path which took well over an hour. What an adventure. I’m convinced mules are so sure footed they could climb a ladder!

Our accommodation was basic, our hosts convivial. The adventurers were off the following morning on a three hour hike up the mountain. They returned for lunch and then another hour hike down the mountain to pick up the bus. Five of us opted for the daunting drive down the mountain. We were a tad cramped in the tiny car but by this stage we had shared all sorts of personal stories, personal preferences and even personal hygiene tips. Gastro encourages this!